Dienstag, 30. Juli 2013

2013/07/29: Winnipeg

Winnipeg, the capital and largest city of Mannitoba, was founded at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers.

I arrived by train yesterday morning. The train station was built by the architects who also built New York's Grand Central Station.

As the Museum of Human Rights won't be opened before 2014, ...

... I had to visit the Railway Museum.

The city's skyscrapers...

...are connected by an interesting system of skywalks.

To bring urban atmosphere to a city, it's not enough to paint a streetcar, you have to build one!

One of the ugliest buildings of the city is the hostel I'm sitting in.

But I'm going to leave hostel and city now to take a 45-hour-train-ride to Churchill at the Hudson Bay. I'll be back in the civilised world next saturday :)

Montag, 29. Juli 2013

2013/07/29: From Dusk till Dawn

In the late evening and the early morning there are always free seats in the dome car. And this is definitely the best time to take pictures:

2013/07/28: Canadian Washago - Winnipeg

Yesterday I did not only have no chance to visit the beautiful cities Montréal and Toronto, I also didn’t have a chance to buy food, drinks and batteries for the next days in the train (my battery recharger obviously doesn’t work with Canada’s 110 V), so VIA Rail (and its lunch cars) will earn a lot of money from me because of their delay… And my GPS device doesn’t work anymore… Although I don’t like to pay them so much money, I absolutely love the staff of VIA Rail. I never ever met such friendly conductors and station agents. But compared to the US I still don’t understand why traveling by train in Canada is so much more expensive than in the United States – the Amtrak Service is partly much better, especially for coach car passengers, which in Canada are not even allowed to use the “real” dining car. I like Amtrak’s superliner double-decker cars even more than the also extremely comfortable Canadian cars, but taste is a matter of choice... Compared to this other huge country with its Transsiberian Railway, I miss the coal heating (these fucking air conditions, I’m freezing all day!), and I miss the Babuschkas offering cheap food and drinks on the platforms (this reminds me of the fact that I also miss the stops where you can move your legs, in Canada these stops are rarer than in Russia). But the landscape in Canada is more diversified than in Russia, you see not only trees and rivers, but also a lot of lakes! According to my “Trans-Canada Rail Guide” the train already entered “what is known as the “thousand mile gap” cutting through the Canadian Shield. (…) It took more than 20,000 men to get the track from here to the prairies, (…) the train is forced to weave and loop around numerous lakes, all the while cutting through the rock or bogland of the Shield”.


A bit of sleeping, a bit of reading, a bit of talking to other passengers, writing some notes in your diary – and suddenly the day is over. This is how it was at Trassiberian Railway, and it is exactly how it is here in the Canadian. I could stay another week in this comfortable living room train, with framed pictures in every car, four dome cars and nice fellow passengers from different countries. The second night in this trains begins soon, tomorrow morning I’ll have to leave it. How sad.


It’s difficult to name the highlights of a day where you’re relaxing in a comfortable train and looking at uncountable trees and lakes passing by. One of the highlights was for sure the concert of Matt Epp – yes, a life concert in a running train! Matt played some songs (I would call it country folk love songs, no idea what an expert in music would call id) with guitar and harmonica in the “activity car”. To be strictly accurate, he gave three concerts in the three different activity cars, every concert about one hour. His voice is great, so is his sense of humour. “I’ve got the best audience ever – captive!”, “Playing for the first time in a train, my music is moving – technically”. Matt will give some concerts in Germany this year, I can absolutely recommend to visit one!

Another highlight was the stop in Hornepayne. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, cold, windy, rainy, large puddles of water instead of a real platform – but many passengers used the chance to get some fresh air and to move their legs. So did we and entered a little shop that’s open on Sundays and that sells almost everything from potato chips to – yes, to batteries! My GPS device is working again. It’s also the only technical device which receives any signal, using a mobile phone or going online is not possible in this barely populated part of Canada. A last highlight of the day was the dinner in the dining car, followed by my first Canadian beer. I enjoyed it together with Laura, who is doing her work and travel in Canada at the moment. As she has to go back to Germany soon, my Canadian adventure has just started.





2013/07/27: Washago

What a crazy experience! One of the strangest locations I’ve ever been to, one of the best railway experiences I ever had. I’m not talking of the Canadian, I’m talking of Washago, a settlement some 140 kilometres north of Toronto. The taxameter showing already 270 $, the clock showing 11.20 PM, the taxi driver being as baffled as his passengers: we see a railway crossing, a water tower and a little station building. Nothing else. This is the second stop of The Canadian after Toronto Union Station? Never!
Oh, yes, it is, we’re right! There’s a kind of schedule in the building, showing that the train to Vancouver stops here – at 12.40 AM.

Oh no. 12.40. That’s almost one and a half hour. The taxi driver (a very nice guy from Tansania, studying in Toronto, who actually hates driving and who confused me somehow by starting every second sentence with “it happens that”) drove as fast as he could just to bring us to the train in time – neither he nor we did know the departure time - and now it happens that we’re stuck in this cold nothing for 80 minutes. A perfect setting for western movies, horror movies, thrillers and so on.
It happens that the longer we stay, the colder it gets. It starts raining, later thunder and lightning appeare. And more and more people appeare. The only thing which doesn't appear is our train. It happens that everytime we hear a train, we run to the platform with our baggage, but again and again it is “only” a freight train with about 100 double-packed container cars.
It happens that one guy calls VIA rail and gets the response that the train will arrive with an delay of one hour. This means 1.40 AM. One hour more in the cold rain. We just want to fall asleep. Thank god there’s this boy of two years, working as an entertainer for the other potential passengers.
2.27 AM: It happens that the train finally arrives. Almost two hours delay at the first stop. Congratulations, and good lock on your ongoing trip to Vancouver, dear Canadian! Good night.




Samstag, 27. Juli 2013

2013/07/26: No Montréal, no Toronto

Breakfast in Vieux Montréal, an afternoon walk at Toronto’s waterfront, bringing my backpack to a guesthouse in Toronto, boarding “The Canadian” (which is the most famous train in Canada, running from Toronto to Vancouver) at Toronto’s Union Station in the late evening: This has been the plan for today. Arriving in Montréal with a delay of 6 hours and 55 minutes (new personal record! Almost two hours more than California Zephyr in 2008!), no time in Montréal, not even a stop in downtown Toronto: this has been the reality. In Montréal I (successfully) tried my best to get my rucksack as fast as possible out of the baggage car and brought it to the afternoon train to Toronto, which had already waited about one hour for us. Thanks to Jonathan, the best chief of a train you can imagine, my backpack will spend the next weeks at Toronto’s Union station, which I won’t see today. The train I’m sitting on has a delay of more than one and a half hour, so I would be in Toronto when The Canadian had already left. That’s why I have to leave the train now in Oshawa, where three taxis (paid by VIA Rail) will bring the involved passengers to Washago, the second stop of the Canadian. My travel from Atlantic to Pacific was planned as a relaxing holiday, at the moment I’m feeling like Phileas Fogg on his race around the world…
The cause of the Ocean’s delay had been an engine problem during the night. Due to this problem we had so much delay that the engineer wasn’t allowed to drive anymore, so that we had to wait some hours in Rivière-du-Loup for a new engine driver…
Now one seemed to be surprised that the train was delayed, no one was complaining, everybody was relaxed (imagine the same situation in Germany! Mobile networks would collapse because 120 female members of a bowling club would have to call their husbands to inform them that they have to pick them up at the station later and that German Railway is absolutely terrible and that everything is terrible and that it is too cold/warm outside/inside and that they still don’t know what they should buy Gerda as a present for her birthday next week)…
After the departure in Montréal, the long welcoming announcement of the chief of the train was only presented in French. Break of one minute. Still no English announcement. Now the female bowling club members behind me begin to whisper, within 30 seconds ten women are having a stimulating discussion: “Should be English!” “Didn’t understand one word!” “I don’t speak any French!” “He should really repeat it in English”. Obviously a delay of six hours is no problem, but an only-French announcement is a huge problem. Canadians are absolutely relaxed people, as long as it doesn’t come to topics of bilingualism...

2013/07/26: The Ocean

My last day in Halifax started with jogging to and through the Point Pleasant Park, 186 acres of forest and beaches on the tip of the Halifax peninsula. In the early morning, when there are just some people jogging or walking their dogs; trees and ocean are hidden in the fog; you hear ships but you can't see them - it is a nice experience to be there. I also enjoyed the way back through the harbour, although it is a bit scary to be jogging between these huge tower cranes and container stacks. After a last visit in the megastore - I still hate its air conditioning, as much as I hate the air conditioning of the train I'm sitting on - I had to leave Halifax. The adventure "crossing Canada by train" started with a 3-locomotives-and-18-cars-train called "The Ocean". Thrice weekly this train connects Halifax with Montréal. According to the time table the train ride (1.346 km) takes 22 hours. At the moment we're still standing in Rivière-du-Loup with an delay of 4 1/2 hours... Will be difficult to catch my connecting train in Montréal, which leaves 4 hours after the scheduled arrival of the Ocean... But besies the fact that this train is awfully slow and I'm afraid that I won't catch the Canadian this evening in Toronto, there are also good news: there's free Wi-Fi available on the train, wuhuu! And it stopped raining!! Yesterday evening the ongoing rain made it almost impossible to take nice pictures out of the train window, now it would be possible again - if the fu* train would leave now the ugly station of Rivière-du-Loup after almost one hour of shunting and rumbling... The pictures below show some impressions of the previous train ride trough Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Quebec.

Donnerstag, 25. Juli 2013

2013/07/25: Halifax

A great day in Halifax is almost over. The Museum of Immigration at Pier 31 is definitely worth a visit, so are the Citadelle, the public gardens and the Victorian style garden suburbs in the north. Some questions of this day: - why are the people in Canada so extremely friendly? - why are so many people so fat? (ok, this one is easy: junk food + car driving) - why is everything so expensive? - why is it not allowed to celebrate weddings (and to go jogging!) and the public gardens? - and, most important: which sightseeing bus is more beautiful? The British routemaster or the American five-axle vehicle? Some more pictures of Halifax, I won't bore you with a long text: